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Helmut Newton x M.A.C. Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour

Helmut Newton x M.A.C. Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour

Matte lipstick is een absolute klassieker. Het dateert uit de tijd van zwart-wit fotografie en oldschool glamour. Sensueel, vrouwelijk en tegelijkertijd strak, sterk en edgy. Liquid mattes zijn dé trend du jour en blazen het concept nieuw leven in: het nieuwe matte is nog steeds glamoureus en sexy, maar de kleuren zijn heel muted en natuurlijk. Geen helder rood, geen fel oranje of roze. Understated kleuren in een nieuwe wereld die de modemagazines en Hollywoodgrenzen ontgroeit. Een realiteit die beaamt dat “anybody can become insta-famous”.
Eind 2016 lanceerde M.A.C. een gelimiteerde collectie rond modefotograaf Helmut Newton, met daarin deze drie liquid matte lipsticks die in 2017 mijn bureau bereikten. Geen preview vankeer dus, beetje laat etc. maarrrr een blogpost die ik toch wil doen, want zeitgeist en al. Niet helemaal mee met wat ik bedoel? Een korte introductie/mijn interpretatie van het werk van Helmut Newton + review van de Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour formule.

Helmut Newton

bron: Taschen.com
Helmut Newton

Newton (1920-2004, Joods, opgegroeid en begraven in Berlijn maar voor de oorlog gevlucht naar Australië, via Singapore) is één van de meest bekende glamour- en modefotografen. Hij fotografeerde al voor Vogue in de fifties, maar verwierf mainstream bekendheid in de seventies. Een periode waarin seksualiteit uit de schaduw kwam, waarmee geëxperimenteerd werd, gekokketeerd. Een gegeven dat altijd actueel is. Vandaag – misschien niet geheel toevallig in een vlaag van seventies revival – minder uitdagend en choquerend dan weleer, maar nog steeds een uitnodiging tot (r)evolutie. Want in welke mate erotiek/fetisjisme en fashion ook met elkaar flirten, de rode lijn in hun dialoog blijft zelfbeeld. Hoe we naar buiten dragen wat we vanbinnen voelen, zien er (h)erkennen.  Newton weet dat uitzonderlijk mooi en helder vast te leggen op beeld. Niet enkel in portretten (hij schoot bekendheden als Deneuve, Charlotte Rampling, Bowie tot de iron lady Thatcher).

Bowie – Monte Carlo, 1983

Hij fotografeerde voor o.a. Vogue, Elle, Vanity Fiar en Playboy. Zijn vaak uitdagend controversieel onderwerp meestal vrouwen, openlijk seksueel, zelfzeker en de grenzen van genderidentiteit aftastend. Vaak naakt, altijd sterk, empowering. Zijn modellen zijn slank en fashion maar met alle vormen van borsten en tepels, billen met en zonder cellulite. “Pornografisch”, misschien, “voyeuristisch”, zoals zijn werk vaak genoemd werd door wie niet noodzakelijk deel wenste uit te maken van de dialoog die hij met zijn camera aanging. Hij was niet bang om een beetje genderbending en sadomasochisme voor te schotelen aan mainstream magazines. De modellen komen mij meestal onpersoonlijk over, dominant en/of afstandelijk. Tegelijkertijd delen ze een intiem moment met de aanschouwer: een moment van aftasten, zoeken en vinden. Een inspiratie om hetzelfde te doen: tast af wie je bent, zoek jezelf en baadt in het licht van je eigen awesomeness. De foto’s van Newton zochten de grens van wat sociaal acceptabel was en verlegden ze.

Newton door echtgenote/fotograaf Alice Springs – Monte Carlo, 1987

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M.A.C. Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour

De drie Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolours uit de limited edition Helmut Newton collectie van M.A.C. (behoudens vergissing nog steeds beschikbaar in de on-line store) kregen een foto mee op de verpakking. Mooi, maar daar koop je natuurlijk geen lipstick voor. Het Newtonesque aspect bestaat er vooral in dat je met deze babies een strakke lip tekent in drie kleuren die niet zouden misstaan in zijn foto’s: sensueel maar sterk. De formule zet de look kracht bij. Het slechte nieuws: deze zijn limited edition. Het goede nieuws: M.A.C. lanceerde een week geleden 12 nieuwe nude kleuren Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolours.

[icon]brook-icon-grin2[/icon] De lipstick voelt comfy op de lippen: lightweight en soepel.
[icon]brook-icon-grin[/icon] Heeft de geweldige eigenschap om ook de binnenkant van mijn lippen te kleuren; je weet wel, dat zachte, roze deel van de lippen waar normaal gezien geen lipstick pakt.

[icon]brook-icon-grin2[/icon] Eens ze opgedroogd zijn, blijven ze uren zitten. Tried & tested: er de hele werkdag (incl. koffietjes en lunch) mee rondgelopen.
[icon]brook-icon-neutral[/icon] Droogt de lippen enigszins uit (wat je eigenlijk altijd wel mag verwachten van een liquid matte die volledig matte opdroogt).


[icon]brook-icon-tag3[/icon]
in M.A.C. stores en op maccosmetics.be
€24,50

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